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Compared to Taos and Santa Fe, Silver City is “a bit rough around the edges,” exclaimed the New York Times a few years ago. Mostly they were right. But, that is exactly part of its charm...and Silver City does have a lot of charm. The downtown historic area with its narrow streets, old buildings and elevated sidewalks has an intimate, timeless bustle that harkens back to the days of mule-drawn freighters that used to clip-clop their way down Bullard Street.
Historically, Silver City was at the center of silver and copper mining. These forces shaped the area and can still be seen today. The most striking example exists right in the heart of downtown: The Big Ditch.
Between the miners and the livestock, the hills surrounding Silver City were virtually denuded of trees and other vegetation. There was nothing to slow down storm runoff. On the night of July 21, 1895, a wall of water came rushing through those barren hills right down Main Street and carved out a ditch 55 feet deep. Businesses had to start using their backdoors, which opened onto Bullard Street, as main entrances. And even today, 115 years later, Bullard is the main street of Silver City. The big ditch? It is now a long and narrow sunken park which runs through the middle of downtown right where Main Street ought to be.
But, there is more to see and experience in Silver City. How about 45 art galleries? There are also several great local restaurants in the downtown area, as well as at least three coffee houses in the space of four blocks. A couple of antique shops, a few used book stores, a fantastic museum and the legendary Buffalo Bar just add to its distinctive appeal.
Perhaps the real beauty of Silver City is its location. It is not on the road to anywhere else. If you are not specifically bound for Silver City, you’re not going to find it. Nestled in the foothills of the mammoth Gila National Forest, it is just south of Pinos Altos, Lake Roberts and the Gila Cliff Dwellings.
Check out www.SilverCity.org for more information. And my headquarters, “a bit rough around the edges” though it might be, is the venerable Palace Hotel. Built in 1882 and right in the center of things, it has a sweetness all its own.
Jon Knudsen is a freelance writer and occasional guest on "New Mexico In Focus" (PBS). Email him at johnny_mango@yahoo.com.
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